Starting your microgreens journey feels exciting until you realize you’re missing half the gear you actually need. Growing those tiny power-packed greens isn’t just about tossing seeds in soil and hoping for the best.
It’s about having the right tools in place from day one. From breathable trays that don’t drown your seedlings to lights that turn leggy sprouts into lush greens, every detail counts. A few smart choices now can save you hours of frustration and wasted batches later.
This guide breaks down exactly what you need to grow strong, healthy microgreens that taste amazing and actually look like something you’d want to eat or sell. Let’s set you up for real success 🌱💡✨
Growing Trays: Choosing the Right Foundation
Your growing tray is one of the most crucial pieces of equipment in microgreens cultivation. It holds the growing medium, retains moisture, and directly impacts the efficiency and consistency of your harvest.
The most commonly used tray size is the 10”x20” seedling flat, often found in garden centers and big-box stores. While this size is convenient and widely available, standard trays tend to be made of thin, brittle plastic. These trays break easily, especially around the edges after just a few uses. Additionally, they are usually 2 inches deep, which is unnecessarily deep for microgreens and leads to wasted soil.
Shifting to shallow trays (1-inch deep) makes a dramatic difference. They are not only more sturdy due to less leverage and depth, but they also help reduce soil usage by 50%. That means you can stretch your soil supply much further without compromising on plant health. However, the trade-off is that shallow trays dry out faster, which requires more attentive watering.
High-quality trays from brands like Bootstrap Farmer, which are made from rigid, heavy-duty plastic and designed for repeated use. These trays include proper drainage holes to prevent water pooling, which can lead to mold or damping-off disease. While more expensive upfront, they pay off over time due to their durability.
When stacking trays for blackout germination or bottom watering, a good-quality shallow tray can last for years and handle heavy use without cracking. Using a solid tray (no holes) beneath your growing tray allows for bottom watering, which is vital for clean microgreens that avoid mold and soil splash back.
Seeds: Bulk vs. Packets & What to Look For
Choosing the right type and quantity of seed is foundational to both the success and cost-efficiency of growing microgreens. One of the biggest beginner mistakes is buying seeds in small packets, which are often marketed for garden use. These packets may cost $1 to $4 each, yet only contain enough seed for half a tray or less of microgreens.
Microgreens require dense seeding for proper canopy development. For example, a full 10×20 tray of sunflower might need 4 oz or more of seed, whereas arugula or mustard might only need 1 oz. This means those little packets are not only uneconomical but insufficient for even a single grow cycle.
Buying in bulk quantities is essential. According to the video:
- A 1 lb bag of Red Giant mustard can cover up to 16 trays.
- A 5 lb bag of sunflower seeds can yield 15 or more trays, depending on density.
- Peas, another popular microgreen, require larger seed volumes but are cheap when bought in 5–25 lb bags.
Not only does bulk buying save money, but it also ensures consistency across crops. Stick with microgreen-specific seed sellers like Everwilde Farms, Bootstrap Farmer, or Johnny’s Selected Seeds. These suppliers often offer organic, heirloom, or untreated seeds, which are preferred for microgreens, especially if grown for consumption or sale.
To ensure precision, use a measuring cup or digital scale. The speaker uses a cup with oz, grams, teaspoons, and milliliters, helping him replicate exact results from tray to tray. This matters for maintaining uniformity, tracking yields, and avoiding over-seeding, which can lead to poor airflow and mold.
Growing Medium: Soil vs. Soilless Options
The growing medium is where your microgreens root, so it must support moisture retention, airflow, and root anchoring. Interestingly, nutrient content is not the top priority for microgreens because they draw most of their energy from the seed during early growth.
The key factor is texture. Fine, consistent, and chunk-free medium ensures uniform germination and growth. The video stresses avoiding large wood chips or bark pieces, which are common in cheap potting mixes. These chunks can obstruct root development and cause uneven watering.
Here are some effective and cost-efficient mediums:
- Coconut Coir
- Sold as compressed bricks, coir is inert and eco-friendly.
- Expands significantly when soaked.
- Excellent water retention.
- Works well alone or blended with compost.
- Peat Moss + Compost Mix
- Peat moss retains water and provides softness.
- Compost adds microbial life and mild nutrients.
- Sifting is crucial to remove wood chunks or debris.
- Pre-packaged Potting Mix (with caution)
- Only use if you sift it first.
- A homemade sifter using ½” hardware cloth or chicken wire is an easy and inexpensive solution.
- You can build a sifter frame from scrap wood in minutes.
Buying coir or compost in bulk can cut growing medium costs by 30–50% compared to bagged, branded potting soils. Since microgreens don’t grow deep roots, you’re only using about 0.5 to 1 inch of medium per tray, making every cubic foot of soil go a long way.
The proper growing medium contributes to better germination, easier harvesting, and a lower risk of mold or rot.
Watering & Drainage Systems: Keeping the Balance
Watering is one of the most critical aspects of growing healthy microgreens. Too little and your greens will dry out and become stunted. Too much and you invite mold, algae, or root rot. A well-thought-out watering and drainage system is essential for moisture control and sanitation.
Bottom watering as the gold standard for microgreens. This method involves placing your growing tray (with holes) inside a solid tray (without holes) and watering into the bottom tray. The growing medium absorbs moisture from below via capillary action, keeping the foliage dry.
Why bottom watering works:
- It prevents mold and damping off, especially during germination when the canopy is dense.
- It keeps stems and leaves dry, reducing rot and contamination.
- It allows you to control moisture more precisely, since you can see how much water is being absorbed.
A spray bottle or fine-mist sprayer is useful during the early stages, particularly during the germination blackout phase. A light misting prevents seed displacement while keeping the top layer moist. However, after germination, the switch to bottom watering ensures more even hydration without disturbing the delicate shoots.
For larger operations or advanced setups:
- Capillary mats or automated wicking trays are useful for consistent moisture control.
- Timer-based drip systems can be rigged up for scale but require tight control to avoid overwatering.
- Always ensure your trays have drainage holes, and the bottom trays don’t pool water excessively — dump excess after 30 minutes to avoid soggy roots.
Proper watering frequency depends on factors like:
- Ambient humidity and temperature
- Tray depth (shallow trays dry faster)
- Medium type (coconut coir holds more water than peat)
- Crop type (sunflowers need more water than arugula)
Typically, microgreens are watered once or twice daily, depending on environmental conditions. Using a moisture meter or simply lifting the tray to feel its weight can help you gauge water levels more precisely.
Blackout Domes & Germination Techniques
The blackout phase is a vital step in microgreens production that helps promote even germination, strong root anchoring, and upward growth. During this phase, seeded trays are covered and kept in the dark for 2–4 days, depending on the variety.
There are two common blackout methods:
1. Weighted Tray Method
- A second tray is placed on top of the seeded tray and weighted down with 5–15 lbs (bricks, dumbbells, etc.).
- This pressure forces seeds to root deeply and results in stronger, sturdier stems.
- It also encourages uniform germination, as all seeds are exposed to the same pressure and darkness.
The speaker emphasizes that while this method may seem harsh, most microgreens can easily push through 15 lbs or more of weight. Crops like sunflower and peas, in particular, benefit from this method, as it helps shed their tough seed hulls.
2. Humidity Dome Method
- A clear plastic dome or inverted tray is placed over the growing tray.
- This traps humidity and warmth, which aids in rapid germination.
- Better for delicate crops like basil, amaranth, or herbs that don’t respond well to heavy weight.
The choice between these methods depends on the crop and your growing environment. You can also combine both — start with a mist, apply light pressure for 24 hours, then switch to a dome. During blackout, it’s important to maintain 70–80% humidity and consistent warmth (around 70°F or 21°C).
The blackout period generally lasts:
- 2–3 days for fast growers like radish or mustard
- 4–5 days for sunflowers and peas
- 6–7 days for basil or cilantro (depending on germination)
Once the seedlings are about ½ inch tall, yellowish in color, and showing uniform sprouting, it’s time to remove the cover and introduce them to light.
Grow Lights & Natural Light Considerations
After the blackout period, microgreens need light to photosynthesize and develop their rich color and nutrient content. Without adequate lighting, you’ll get leggy, pale shoots with weak flavor and structure.
Basic shop lights or LED strips can work if positioned correctly. You don’t need expensive full-spectrum grow lights as long as you provide:
- 12–16 hours of light daily
- Close proximity (1–4 inches above the canopy)
- Even distribution across trays
Types of Lighting:
- LED Shop Lights
- Affordable and efficient
- Available in 4-ft lengths to match 10×20 trays
- Look for models with 4000–6500K color temperature for best plant response
- T5 Fluorescent Fixtures
- Slightly warmer and more fragile
- Run hotter, which can be helpful in cold spaces
- Still effective but being phased out by LED alternatives
- Full-Spectrum Grow Lights
- Provide enhanced PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation)
- Ideal for commercial growers or those optimizing for color and yield
- Can be expensive, but helpful for crops like basil or amaranth
Natural Light:
If you’re growing microgreens in a sunny window or greenhouse, you can skip artificial lighting — but only if your location gets consistent 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Even then, cloudy days can reduce quality and slow growth, so artificial lighting remains more consistent for year-round growing.
A simple timer ensures lights turn on and off automatically, mimicking natural cycles and reducing labor. Light quality not only affects growth rate but also pigmentation — for instance, purple radish and red cabbage develop deeper hues under strong lighting.
Harvesting Tools & Techniques
Harvesting microgreens at the right time and with the right tools can dramatically affect their shelf life, flavor, and presentation.
Microgreens are typically harvested when the cotyledons (first leaves) are fully developed and before true leaves start to appear — usually between 7 and 21 days, depending on the variety.
Harvesting Tools:
- Sharp Knife or Harvesting Blade
- A serrated or razor-sharp straight edge is ideal
- Dull tools can crush stems, reducing shelf life and causing browning
- The speaker recommends a large kitchen knife or harvesting blade with a wide grip for safety
- Scissors (for small harvests)
- Effective for small trays or home use
- Less efficient for multiple trays due to slower cutting speed
- Harvesting Tray or Cutting Board
- Collect cut greens into a clean, shallow tray
- Avoid stacking too deeply to reduce bruising
Harvest by gripping the base of the greens and slicing cleanly across the top of the medium, just above the soil line. Do not pull or tear, as this can lead to contamination and inconsistent cuts.
Post-Harvest Tips:
- Do not wash if selling immediately or storing for a short time — moisture shortens shelf life
- If washing is needed, use cold water and a salad spinner to dry quickly
- Store in clamshell containers or zip-top bags with a paper towel to absorb moisture
- Refrigerate immediately after harvest to extend freshness
Shelf life varies:
- Sunflowers and peas last 7–10 days
- Mustard and arugula last 5–7 days
- Proper storage can improve this by 20–30%